Artist Sam Lock reinterprets Anest Collective S/S 2022 in a series of original works
British artist Sam Lock has created new works that take inspiration from Anest Collective’s designs, this season exploring the idea of ”finding more than meets the eye”.
“It was the idea to go deeper, to find more than meets the eye,” Anest Collective Contributing Creative Director Brendan Mullane said of the Shanghai-based brand’s S/S 2022 collection and Milan, which was inspired by the illusory works of the French painter Pierre Soulages and the photographic technique of double exposure.
Playful visual flourishes—subtle trompe l’oeil moments, unexpected hybrid garments, elements cut and reapplied for “echoes” of their original forms—were found throughout the collection, often only visible on close inspection ( or, indeed, , when the pieces were worn on the body). “It seems to be much more simple and pure than it really is,” Mullane said of the collection at its launch. You get a trace of something that isn’t quite there.
Last week in London, Mullane added another visual layer to the season, enlisting British artist Sam Lock to create a series of original works inspired by the various garments in the collection. Displayed during a breakfast in the MTArt Agency artist space, the resulting 10m-long curtains stretched around the edges of the room and over the center table (after the event, the tablecloth was cut into squares, giving each assistant your own work of art to take home). Composed of a series of abstract gestures in paint, Lock says his work is defined by a sense of movement, one that says he was drawn to the collection itself.
‘When Brendan and I met by video call, we were surprised by the synergy between our ideas; we talk about fragmentation, movement, time and timelessness’, Lock tells Wallpaper*. ‘The curtains I made for the project are full of marks documenting waves of action painting. This movement is also present in the collection itself, the strong silhouettes come to life on the body in unexpected ways, they become dynamic forms.’
From the synergy between Mullane and himself, Lock returns to the S/S 2022 collection and its title, ‘More Than the Eye Can See’. “One of the goals we both strive for is that the things we do unfold slowly, that the more time you spend with them, the more you discover,” says Lock. “Brendan looks at fashion design from the inside out, driven by how the design feels, rather than just its aesthetics. I think of the quote from filmmaker Jean-Luc Godard, who describes “style as the exterior of substance “.
‘See our collection up close [Sam’s] the paintings felt totally organic,” adds Mullane. “I think the most important thing that we share is that we know the underlying hidden processes that are involved in creation and how they are so fundamentally important. With this collaboration, it was almost like we were finishing each other’s sentences.’ §